How Do You Sew A Perfect Rolled Hem

Have you ever looked at a dress with a rolled hem and wondered? How was it done so neatly? How do you sew a perfect rolled hem? When done correctly, rolled hems are one of the most satisfying hem finishes on a garment.  

If you struggle with rolled hems, the tips below will help you get over those issues.  You too can learn how to sew the most perfect rolled hems.

What Is A Rolled Hem?

A rolled hem is a very narrow double folded hem. When sewn with a rolled hem foot or hemmer foot, all raw edges are completely enclosed and sewn in one step.  

When Should I Use A Rolled Hem?

A rolled hem is often used on lightweight fabrics like chiffon, lawn, silk and satin. It provides a really delicate and skinny hem on skirts, dresses, blouses and scarves.  

Rolled hems can also be used on medium weight cotton or linen to create a narrow hem. While a rolled hem on cotton is not particularly delicate, it looks very professional.  

Check out some of the nicer napkins or tablecloths in your kitchen. I guarantee that you’ll see the application of a rolled hem. 

Do You Need A Special Foot For A Rolled Hem?

No, you don’t need a special foot to create a rolled hem. It does help to have a rolled hem foot even if it is very tricky to master.  You can sew a rolled hem with a regular sewing machine foot but you will need to prep the fabric first. 

First,  press the raw edge under by ¼” all around your project.  Next, sew the hem around the entire project using a ⅛” seam allowance. Trim off the remaining ⅛” seam allowance, being careful not to cut your sewing.  

Press the up another ¼”, then sew the entire seam ⅛” away from the fold. Finally, press the seam one last time and your hem is complete.

How Much Seam Allowance Do You Need For A Rolled Hem?

The seam or hem allowance for a rolled hem is typically ¼”.  The allowance can be slightly smaller or larger depending on the size of your rolled hem foot.  

If you sew a rolled hem by hand, you can make the seam allowance as much or as little as you are comfortable sewing.

How Do You Start A Rolled Hem Foot?

For most people, the hardest part of the rolled hem process is getting started.  To make your life and the process easier, start off with a straight edge of fabric. Place the rolled hem foot on the machine and draw the threads towards the back of the machine.

Place the corner of the fabric just under the foot and sew no more than four stitches forward.  Lift the presser foot and pull the fabric and thread out to get a 3” tail.  You will need this as the anchor with which to pull fabric to get the roll started.  

Place the edge of the fabric back under the foot.  Then you will feed the corner that you just sewed through the groove in the rolled hem foot.  Be careful not to put too much fabric in or it will not curl under the groove like you need it to do.  

Too little fabric and you’ll just be sewing on a single fold. Too much fabric and you’ll be sewing a mangled mess.  When you have the fabric just right, start sewing while holding the threads at the back of the machine.  You will want to hold the fabric in front of the machine at a slight 45 degree angle.  

This will encourage the fabric to go through the groove in the foot at the angle you want and to aid the curl.  Keep sewing until you either achieve a perfect rolled hem or you’ve mangled the fabric.  

I’m warning you now.  You WILL mangle the fabric many times before you perfect this technique.  Give yourself some grace, grab more fabric and keep practicing.

However, once you’ve coordinated your right hand and your brain with the fabric, you’ll have created the perfect rolled hem.   

Can A Serger Do A Rolled Hem?

Yes.  You can sew a rolled hem on a serger.  Be aware, however, that a rolled hem on a serger does not look like a narrow double turned hem.  A rolled hem on a serger is the end result of the upper and lower looper threads wrapping around the raw edge of your project.  

Chiffon is the perfect fabric on which to sew a rolled hem using a serger. There is no need to prepare or iron the fabric prior to but you will need to prepare your serger.  

Depending on your serger, you may need to disable or move the stitch finger and adjust the tension depending on your fabric.  For best results, consult the manual for your serger for the instructions on how to set up your machine for a rolled hem.

How Do You Sew A Rolled Hem By Hand?

If you have some time on your hands, a comfy chair, good tunes or a good book, you can sew a rolled hem by hand.  Sewing a rolled hem by hand is an easy yet tedious technique.  You simply need a good short sharp needle and hand sewing thread.  

You don’t need any fancy tools nor do you need to iron the fabric to get started.  What you will need is a hem without any stray or loose threads.  You will want to trim any loose threads to make the process easier.  

Also, wash your hands before you start to get rid of any oils.  You want to have a clean and dry surface on which to roll the fabric. Using your non-dominant hand to hold the hem, you will roll the hem inward using your thumb.  

It may take some practice to get the seam allowance to totally roll under but eventually you will.  Sew the hem using tiny slip stitches at the edge of the hem and into the fold you just created.  You’re doing it correctly when the stitches are barely visible on the right side of the fabric.

Conclusion

You’ve learned several ways to sew a perfect rolled hem.  Which one is your favorite?  Which one will you try next?  Keep practicing and make beautiful things.  Happy sewing!